Surfing

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You're done. Once you're a surfer, you're done. You're in. It's like the mob or something. You're not getting out. ~ Kelly Slater

Surfing is a surface water sport in which the participant is carried along the face of a breaking wave, most commonly using a surfboard.

Quotes[edit]

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  • You're done. Once you're a surfer, you're done. You're in. It's like the mob or something. You're not getting out.
  • In one place we came upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing. Each heathen would paddle three or four hundred yards out to sea, (taking a short board with him), then face the shore and wait for a particularly prodigious billow to come along; at the right moment he would fling his board upon its foamy crest and himself upon the board, and here he would come whizzing by like a bombshell! It did not seem that a lightning express train could shoot along at a more hair-lifting speed. I tried surf-bathing once, subsequently, but made a failure of it. I got the board placed right, and at the right moment, too; but missed the connection myself. — The board struck the shore in three quarters of a second, without any cargo, and I struck the bottom about the same time, with a couple of barrels of water in me. None but natives ever master the art of surf-bathing thoroughly.
    • Mark Twain, on his trip to Hawaii, in Roughing It (1872), Ch. LXXIII : Native Canoes—Surf Bathing—A Sanctuary—How Built—The Queen's Rock—Curiosities—Petrified Lava
  • It was so big [the wave], it didn't even know we were there.
    • Daniel Webber, as quoted in "Welcome to the Weird and Wonderful World of the Webber Clan", interview by Tim Baker, Australian Surfing World Magazine, Issue no. 271 (2004)

External links[edit]

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